Behind the Seams: The Visionary Costume Design of Rafaella Rabinovich
Rafaella Rabinovich is a trailblazing, internationally acclaimed costume designer whose artistry bridges the worlds of film, television, stage and live performance. From the Netflix hit “To All The Boys I’ve Loved Before” to “Cirque du Soleil” productions, Rafaella has consistently redefined character storytelling through fabric, texture, and design.
Her innovative work has earned her a Daytime Emmy nomination for “Project MC2,” the Costume Society of America Design Award, and numerous other accolades from the Leo and CAFTCAD Awards. Most recently, her designs for “Dandyland” have been recognized with a prestigious Costume Designers Guild Award nomination, celebrating her ability to craft vibrant, whimsical, and deeply evocative costumes that bring characters and stories to life.
In this exclusive interview, Rafaella shares her thoughts on the creative journey behind “Dandyland,” the inspirations that shaped its unique aesthetic, and the lessons she’s learned along the way. From her love of Rococo opulence and queer camp to her dreams of telling untold stories through costume design, Rafaella’s passion for her craft shines in every word.
How did you feel when you found out you were nominated for a Costume Designers Guild Award for “Dandyland?”
When I found out about the nomination, I was completely overwhelmed with shock, joy, and a sense of gratitude all at once. I actually had to reread the email to believe it was real! Being recognized by the Costume Designers Guild, a community I deeply admire, is both humbling and surreal. Knowing that all the hard work, late nights, and creative risks taken on Dandyland paid off makes this moment even more meaningful. Above all, it’s a celebration of the incredible team that brought these costumes to life and contributed to shaping the heart of the series.
What does this nomination mean to you as a costume designer?
This nomination is a powerful reminder of the importance of costume design in storytelling. We work behind the scenes, shaping characters and narratives through fabric, texture, and color. Having that work recognized on such a prestigious platform is deeply validating. It’s a reminder that costume design isn’t just about clothing — it’s about creating a visual language that defines the identity of a story. For me, this nomination also represents pushing boundaries, challenging norms, and inspiring creativity. Dandyland was a project where I followed my instincts, took risks, and aimed to create something meaningful. The recognition feels like a testament to the importance of those efforts, and it inspires me to keep evolving as a designer. This milestone inspires me to continue evolving, embracing the unknown, and creating with purpose.
What was the creative vision behind the costumes in “Dandyland?”
The creative vision for the costumes in Dandyland was to build a world that can house this silly-queer-more is more life, while maintaining this fluff and fantastical feeling, it’s meant to reflect the series’ unique blend of whimsy, chaos, and raw emotions. I wanted each piece to feel like an extension of the characters’ inner worlds, enhancing their arcs and helping to tell their stories visually. The goal was to create a dreamlike quality with a fantastical twist. Each costume was designed to evoke a sense of individuality, with every detail coming together to support the character and the narrative of the episode. The result is a visual language that feels simultaneously historically-nostalgic and forward-thinking, much like Dandyland himself.
Were there any particular inspirations — such as fashion eras, cultural references, or designers — that influenced your designs for “Dandyland?”
Yes! they’re a wild mix of Rococo opulence, Victorian drama, Macaroni fashion, and over-the-top queer camp, all designed to embody joy, individuality and theatrical rebellion. I’ve always loved the detail of Victorian and Macaroni fashion, bow and lace cravat and all the textures and tassels and self-expression, It feels so relevant to this idea of celebrating individuality and creating this magical, unapologetically queer world. I’m a big art nerd, and I love to see how history and art is so deeply connected, so I’ve drawn inspiration from 1700’s french art by artists like Jean-Antoine Watteau and François Boucher as well as Claude Monet impressionism (they way they viewed color is incredible) to Roy Lichtenstein’s parody through pop art, figures like James McNeill Whistler, Oscar Wilde and the famous NYC Club Kids of the 80’s! And of course designers I deeply admire, like Dior, McQueen, Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, and Balmain. It’s about balancing historical elegance with modern flamboyance, so I get most inspired by opportunities to merge Rococo’s pastel tones and intricate details with the dramatic structure of Victorian fashion, while fully embracing the “more is more” ethos of drag culture and queer aesthetics.
Were there any unexpected surprises during the production process that required quick thinking or adaptability?
Yes, there were definitely a few unexpected moments during production that requires quick thinking and adaptability! One of the biggest surprises was how quickly the wardrobe needed to be adjusted to suit the dynamic and fast-paced nature of the show. There are a lot of costume changes throughout each episode, and keeping the costumes fresh, functional, and aligned with the whimsical aesthetic was a challenge at times.
For instance, in one of the skits, we had planned for a more traditional design, but once we started blocking, it became clear that it would hinder the performer’s movement. The design wasn’t going to work for the fast-paced, energetic sequence, so I had to quickly rework some elements, swapping things around and modifying the structure of one piece to allow for more flexibility without sacrificing the visual impact.
Another surprise came when we decided to incorporate more intricate handwork on certain costumes, thinking it would be a small touch. But the level of detail and craftsmanship it required took far more time than we anticipated. We had to adjust our timelines and budget and get creative with our approach, finding ways to streamline certain elements without compromising the overall despite working on a shoestring budget.
What role did costume design play in shaping the overall visual aesthetic of “Dandyland?”
Costume design was absolutely essential in shaping the visual aesthetic of Dandyland — Dandy is the heart of the show’s bold, whimsical, and atmosphere, the costumes are a huge part of the character’s tool box. Every costume is crafted to reflect the episode’s journey and it was integral to creating the visual language of Dandyland. It wasn’t just about dressing characters; it was about establishing the show’s unique world, which I was constantly thinking about as the Costume and Production Designer. I loved using costumes to enhance the larger-than-life personalities of the characters. Each costume really tells a story, providing context to the world of Dandyland while simultaneously contributing to the playful, celebratory tone constantly allowing it to exist as a space where individuality and excess are not just accepted, but celebrated.
What did you learn about yourself as a designer while working on “Dandyland?”
Working on Dandyland really pushed me to embrace my love for excess and self-expression. It made me realize just how much I thrive on pushing boundaries and blending historical fashion with bold, contemporary statements. The project reminded me of my deep passion for combining detail with playfulness, and how rewarding it is to create something that truly celebrates the craft of storytelling. It reinforced that it’s about creating a world, telling stories through fabric and design, and capturing the essence of a character. It also reminded me that there’s power in embracing chaos as a tool in artistic progress, and that even in moments of absurdity, there’s a deep connection between what we dream up and what ends up on camera. It’s been an incredibly rewarding challenge, and I’ve learned to trust my instincts more than ever.
Are there any dream projects or collaborations you’d like to pursue after this milestone in your career?
Ultimately, anything that allows me to keep pushing my creative limits, collaborating with passionate people, and bringing stories art to life through characters and costumes.
I’d love to work on projects that explore the lives of queer and marginalized historical figures — those who fought against oppression, who lived boldly before the world was ready to embrace them. These stories deserve visibility, and costume design is a powerful tool in doing that. The way we dress the past can shine a light on what it took to be different in times when society wasn’t ready to accept difference. Whether it’s designing for a period piece or something more abstract or contemporary I would be grateful to use my design to amplify these voices and contribute to the larger conversation about resilience. Stories that can both entertain but also educate, celebrate, and empower the next generation of queer voices.
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Thank you so much for reading! You can learn more about Rafaella’s work here.
